Belleville feels like a different world inside Paris — and that’s exactly why you should visit. On the streets here, art, activism, and migration meet to form one of the city’s most vibrant and creative neighborhoods.
Every time I go, I’m blown away—and remind myself I should come more often.
If you’re after an experience that’s a little different the your typical postcard Paris, Belleville is well worth a spot on your list.
In this article, I’ll take you through Belleville—its culture, art, and the food that keeps me coming back.
Belleville: Discover a Different Side of Paris
As soon as you step out of the metro in Belleville, the neighbourhood pulls you in.
Walls covered in street art. Narrow alleys winding between bold markets and small cafés. It’s lively without trying too hard.
Belleville is nothing like postcard Paris. You won’t find grand Haussmann buildings or polished storefronts here. It’s a colourful, working-class district shaped by migrants, artists, and musicians—and that’s exactly its charm.
Wander a bit and you’ll stumble on second-hand record shops, vintage clothing, exotic spices, and handmade crafts. There are also plenty of small galleries showing both local and international artists.
Hungry? Belleville is great for that too. Classic French one minute, steaming bowls of noodles the next. The strong Asian community here means no shortage of good spots. I’ll tell you about my favourite one further down.
Tip: Arrive via Métro Pyrénées, Belleville, Couronnes, or Ménilmontant—all give you easy access to the neighbourhood.
Background: Why Belleville Feels Different
Belleville has always stood a bit apart. It helps that the neighbourhood sits on one of the highest hills in Paris. From its steep streets, you get some of the best views of the city—without the crowds.
But the hill is more than just a viewpoint. It shaped how Belleville grew. For a long time, this was a village outside the city walls. It only became part of Paris in the 1860s. That distance from the centre gave it a rougher, freer edge.
Belleville’s History of Activism and Immigration
The area has a long history of working-class life and political activism. During the 19th century, it was a stronghold of the Paris Commune. Over the decades, wave after wave of immigrants made it their home—Germans, Jews from Eastern Europe, North Africans, and more recently Chinese and Sub-Saharan Africans.
That mix of cultures is still very present today. It’s one reason why Belleville looks and feels so different from other parts of Paris. No uniform façades or manicured boulevards here. Instead, you’ll find layers of history, voices, languages, and street art that keeps the story moving.
Belleville is also one of the city’s last neighbourhoods where artists can (somehow) still afford to live and work. You’ll see it in the studios, galleries, and on the walls themselves. The neighbourhood’s creative streak runs deep.
However, gentrification isn’t a stranger to Belleville, but even though rising, rents are still ranking along with the lower Parisian average.
✔️ Belleville is an artist & hilltop neighbourhood in the East of Paris
✔️ See: Parc de Belleville, Street Art & Local Flair
✔️ Eat Drink: Noodles at Mian Guan, Cocktails at Combat
✔️ Do: Street Art Walking Tour with an Artist: Book Kasias Tour
✔️ Stay: Babel Belleville (check availabilities)
The Best Things to Do in Belleville Paris
To help you set off to the east and explore this eccentric neighborhood for yourself, here’s for you a list of the best things to do in Belleville.
#1 Discover Street Art in Belleville
Belleville is pretty much the Paris hub for street art. It is in fact one of the best street art locations in Europe.
You’ll find it everywhere—whole walls covered in colour, tiny tags tucked behind bins. The art is part of the streets here.
Some of the most famous spots? Rue Denoyez and Place Fréhel. Both are packed with bold, ever-changing pieces. But keep your eyes open. The best finds are often the ones you stumble across.
Place Fréhel, at the corner of Rue Julien Lacroix and Rue de Belleville, also hides a small urban garden. Right next to it is Culture Rapide—a casual bar known for its outdoor space, poetry slams, and cheap beers. The vibe is unpretentious and local.
#2 Visit the Musée Edith Piaf and her Childhood House
Belleville is also linked to one of France’s most famous voices: Édith Piaf.
Rumour has it she was born right on the pavement at 72 Rue de Belleville. A small plaque there marks the spot and the date—19 December 1915. Though her birth certificate tells a slightly different story.
What is certain: she lived at 5 Rue Crespin du Gast before fame found her. Today, the apartment hosts a small private Edith Piaf museum in her honour. You’ll see personal items, letters, photographs—and of course, her iconic black dress.
The Édith Piaf Museum is free to visit (donations welcome). Just know that reservations are required and the tour is in French only.
Tip: Edith Piaf is buried on the Père Lachaise Cemetery, just a short walk from Belleville.
#3 Join Kasia on a Street Art Tour
Read my review of this fun Street Art Tour
Want to see more of the Paris street art scene? Take a Neighbourhood and Street Art Tour with Kasia.
She’s both an artist and a local guide, and knows Belleville inside out. You’ll explore some of the best works and hear the stories behind them—things you’d easily miss on your own.
Good news: the walking tours are budget-friendly. → Click here for more info.
I did this tour myself in September 2021 and can fully recommend it. You’ll leave with a whole new view of the neighbourhood.
#4 Visit Place de Belleville & Take in the View
Since Belleville sits on a hill, of course there’s a viewpoint. And what a view it is.
Parc de Belleville stretches along one side of the slope. From the top, you get a wide, open panorama over Paris. The park itself is worth a stop too—there are playgrounds, water cascades, and even a small vineyard tucked inside.
Is Belleville safe? In my experience—yes. I’ve never had any issues or felt unsafe here.
One thing to know: as you walk through the park, especially going up or down, you might be asked if you want to buy weed. It can feel a little odd, but there’s nothing to worry about. Just say non, merci and keep walking.
#5 Relax in the Parc de Belleville
Belleville winds up a hill, and much of the western slope is covered by a park that’s anything but typical.
Parc de Belleville is one of the coolest parks in Paris. Locals come here for sunset drinks or just to stretch out in the sun.
If you want a real slice of Parisian life, this is the spot. Bring a baguette, some cheese, olives, and a bottle of wine. Then settle for apéro in and let the evening drift by.
#6 Discover the Petite Ceinture of the 20th
The Petite Ceinture is an old railway belt that once circled Paris. It ran through the city until the early 20th century.
At first, it carried goods, later passengers too. But once the Metro arrived, the line became less useful and finally shut down in 1936.
For decades, the tracks sat abandoned. It wasn’t until 1995 that serious plans to bring parts of it back began. Today, a few sections are open to the public and used as green spaces.
One of them runs through Belleville, in the 20th arrondissement. It’s easy to visit during your walk through the neighbourhood.
#7 See the Sunset from La Bellevilloise
La Bellevilloise is one of those places that locals love—and visitors often miss. It’s part rooftop bar, part cultural venue, and part event space.
The building itself has history. Once a workers’ cooperative, today it hosts concerts, exhibitions, markets, and more. But if you’re after a relaxed evening, head straight to the rooftop.
The bar has a stunning view over Paris. Prices are moderate (by Paris standards), and they serve small snacks too. A glass of wine and a few bites go a long way here.
One tip: get there early if you want a seat for sunset, best even before the open. The good spots fill up fast.
#8 Have a Cocktail at Combat
This laid-back cocktail bar on Belleville’s Rue de Belleville is run by celebrated bartender Margot Lecarpentier, whose bar was named one of the World’s Most Influential by the World’s Best Bar list in 2020.
But Combat is not some fancy upscale place, it blends perfectly with neighborhood charm.
My husband and I loved our evening at Combat. We’d wanted to go for ages — and it did not disappoint.
Where to Eat and Drink in Belleville?
You’ll notice quickly: Belleville is not an area of stay-at-homes. Bars and pubs dot nearly every corner, and when the weather’s nice, entire streets turn into one big open-air beer garden.
Thanks to its layered history of immigration, Belleville is also home to a fantastic mix of Asian, Middle Eastern, and Indian restaurants — so come hungry.
#1 La Cantine Chinoise
For the absolute best summer rolls and bao buns, head to La Cantine Chinoise on Rue de Belleville. Don’t be scared to try Suangmei, a drink with smoked plums.
#2 Mian Guan
My latest discovery are noodles from a shop just next doors, Mian Guan. The queue gave it away but the noodles where some of the most delicious meal I ever had.
Surprisingly also one of the cheapest – especially in Paris. The bowl was less than 10€.
The sauce was rich and tangy, spicy full of flavor. And the noodles? Handcut with a texture that I can still feel in my mouth. Absolutely delcious.
#3 Aux Folies
Located on the corner of Rue Denoyez — Belleville’s famous “Street Art Mile” — Aux Folies is a true neighborhood institution. Once a 1920s cabaret, today it’s a classic Parisian brasserie with plenty of local flair.
It’s always buzzing, whether you stop by for a morning coffee or a late-night drink (they’re open daily from 7 am to 2 am). And the best part? Prices are refreshingly reasonable.
#4 Le Vieux Belleville
Perched near the hilltop of Belleville, Le Vieux Belleville is a charming old-school bar and restaurant that invites you to linger. Its sun-drenched patio is the perfect spot for a glass of wine or a cold beer — especially after climbing up to Belleville’s summit.
The real magic, though, happens during its lively events. From Edith Piaf evenings to French song sing-alongs (with lyrics provided), Le Vieux Belleville is a place where locals and visitors come together. And don’t miss the food — they serve excellent, hearty fare to go with the good vibes. [Check their event program here.]
Where to stay in Belleville?
If you’re looking to stay in a real Parisian neighborhood — one that’s vibrant, diverse, and more local than touristy — Belleville is a great choice. It’s a little rough around the edges, but that’s part of its charm.
You won’t find as many hotels here as in more central districts, but that’s exactly why it offers a more authentic experience — perfect if you want to see a different side of Paris.
The 4 Best Hotels in Belleville, Paris
Even though Belleville has fewer hotels, it doesn’t mean you can’t find some really nice places to stay and enjoy your time.
Babel Belleville
- great local vibes & close to Metro
- Air conditioning & Room Service
- Breakfast Included
- Near Parc de Belleville and Metro station
- Modern & Stylish
- Air conditioning and free Wi-Fi
- Disabled access and pet-friendly
- Near Cemetery Père Lachaise and Belleville.
- Designer hotel with rooftop bar
- iMac in each room, free WiFi
- On-site brasserie and pizzeria
- Situated at Belleville hill’s base
- Easy access to Paris
- Dorms and private double rooms
- Rooftop terrace with Paris views
Wrap Up: Belleville in Paris
Voilà — Belleville. One of a kind and absolutely worth a visit. Whether you come for the art, the food, the nightlife, or simply to experience a side of Paris that’s off the typical tourist path, you’ll find plenty to love here.
Belleville is a neighborhood that surprises, inspires, and invites you to explore at your own pace.
Enjoy your visit — and take your time.
Want more Paris recommendations? Here’s my free Google Map with 200+ spots 🗺️
À bientôt,
Lena
Parisienne since 2006 🇫🇷
Sharing Paris life, French culture, cafés, food & honest travel tips
Join me on Facebook for updates and news about Paris.
NEW: The Salut from Paris Travel Guide:
Must-Haves for Paris:
- eSim card to stay online while in Paris. I used Airalo for my travels.
- You likely need a travel adapter to plug your devices.
- Travel Insurance – if you don’t have one, VisitorsCoverage is a good option.
- If your flight is delayed or even canceled, use AirHelp to get compensation.
Tours & Attractions:
- I book tours & activities through Get Your Guide or Viator.
- Museum & Landmark tickets can be cheaper on the official page, but they are often sold out.
- I love the GoCity Travel Passes for easy planning
Flights & Transportation:
- I use Omio to compare flight fares & connections
- Airport transfers I book through Welcome Pickup
- For car rentals, I use AutoEurope. It’s easy to compare prices
- Train Tickets, you can book through Omio
- Here’s my Parisian Metro Guide
Accomodation:
- Hotels in Europe I mostly book through Booking.com (check reviews carefully)
- Vacation Rentals through Airbnb or VRBO
PS: Check out these posts, they will help you plan your trip to Paris
- 20 Arrondissements in Paris (Quick Guide + Map)
- 37 Hidden Gems in Paris: Secret Spots to Explore
- How to Get Around in Paris: Your Quick Guide
- Where to Stay in Paris: A Local’s Best Picks
- Your Perfect 2 Days in Paris! Itinerary & Insider Tips
- 5 ways to get from Charles de Gaulle airport to Paris – THE complete guide!
- Scams in Paris! How to avoid the most common cons
Pin it now, read it later!
